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Preventative maintenance

General driving advice:

  1. Never use full revs from cold; best practice is to wait until the oil temperature reaches 60 Celcius before exceeding 3000 rpm.
  2. Always let the engine cool down before parking and switching off the ignition after a hard drive. This can be achieved by the simple expedient of driving gently for a couple of minutes before comming to a halt.
  3. If water or oil temperature suddenly start to rise, or you spot steam being emmitted through the bootlid vents, don't ignore the signs and attempt to continue driving. More damage will ensue. Stop and investigate.

Check coolant levels:

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Warning183.gif (151 bytes) CAUTION: the coolant level should only be checked when the system is cold.

  • Visually inspect the coolant level is between the two steps of the level marker inside the expansion tank. If the level is low, or has changed appreciably over a short period of time, suspect leakage or overheating.

Warning183.gif (151 bytes) CAUTION: if the coolant is NOT visible in the expansion tank, the system needs to be re-filled and bleed as discussed below.

  • When topping up the resevoir, do so with a 50:50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Do not mix OAT type antifreeze with other types.

Warning183.gif (151 bytes) CAUTION: the coolant level must not exceed the expansion tank flange.

 

Causes of a falling coolant level:

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  1. Failure of the inlet manifold gasket: if yours still has the black (pre-1998) gasket, then it is far far more prone to failure that the later green-coloured spec material. Not easy to spot which your car has with the manifold in situ, but it can be identified by spotting the colour of the gasket tab at either extreme of the manifold at the cylinder head face (picure opposite).
  2. Corrosion of the underbody coolant pipes. These corrode from the inside out, which means visual inspections are often unhelpful,but if any suggestion of weeping (starts to become common at 5-6 years of age) then replace. Alloy replacements are available from Mike Satur.
  3. Corrosion and failure of the radiator. Again an alloy replacement is available from Mike Satur, or can be swapped with the alloy TF item. Failure becomes more frequent after 5-6 years of age.
  4. Old age degradation of rubber pipe work and the rather cheap jubilee clamps that are used- Mike Satur's are much better in that they provide a much more equal loading force over the the circumference of the pipes.
  5. Also ensure that the cooling system is properly bled following a coolant change- see Dieter's website as well as below for more info.

 

Ensure that the cooling system is thoroughly bleed:

This is crucial, especially following replacement of the coolant at service intervals. Failure to ensure that all the air is bleed from the cooling system will allow pockets of air to block the flow of coolant - which can lead to localised overheating and thus failure of the head gasket.

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There are three bleed nipples in the cooling system of the MGF. One is located by the radiator (A - right and below), the heater (located on the front bulk head behind the bonnet shroud, B) and in the engine bay, on the header rail, pictured from two different angles (C, with filter removed observed from the luggage compartment & D from inside the engine bay with inspection cover removed. The latter provides the easier access).

To bleed the system of air, keep the resevoir topped up with coolant (50:50 water and Unipart Super3 antifreeze) and individually remove the bleed screws one by one to release any trapped air. Ensure that the heater valve is open, by selecting 'maximum heat' on the heater temperature control. Drive the car a short distance, and repeat bleed procedure again once the engine is cold. Repeat cycle until all evidence of air has dissappeared.

 

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Also check for the proper operation of the jiggle valves (one located as arrowed in the figure above, and the other, found located to the cam-belt side of the inlet manifold, as shown on Dieter's website. jiggle_valve.jpg (6435 bytes)

 


Check coolant and oil temperatures because:

  1. If there is overheating, there is a problem!!! It is inadvisable to adopt an 'ostrich' mentality!
  2. The terminals on the ECU temperature sender can corrode or indeed, the sender fail. This leads to bad running, non-operation of the radiator fan and overheating in standing traffic. Not good for longevity of the head gasket! Click 'Related problems: overheating' for more information on this and other causes of overheating.